The To-Do Must Dos for Class on March 15
- READ your e-mails. You should have gotten two in the last few days: “Save the Cheerleader, Save Your Drawings” and “New Blog Posts Are the Latest Web Sensation”.
- REVIEW the Guidelines for Project 2.
- STUDY the Formal Principles of Art and APPLY them critically to your drawing in order to achieve a strong composition.
- WATCH the video tutorial on visual measuring…
and USE the techniques covered to bring the composition you so carefully considered in Step 3 gloriously to life.
- FINISH your Project 2 still life drawing and (optional but recommended) E-MAIL it to me for feedback.
- SECTION your acrylic paper into four equal quarters according to the instructions below.
- TRANSFER your drawing to each of the four taped off sections pretty much the same way you transferred your master image for Project 1.
- MONITOR the blog. There will be at least two more posts coming out before our next class. You can follow the website if you want to receive e-mail notifications when new posts go live. Instructions are here: https://zartnerds.wordpress.com/about/using-the-wordpress-site/
- RELAX, REJUVENATE, ADVENTURE, ENJOY… at least for a little bit. It’s Spring Break, after all, and you’ve earned some you time!
Getting it Right from the Start
You may notice that several of the above steps have to do with evaluating and executing the best drawing possible prior to transferring it for painting. THIS IS CRAZY NUTCAKES IMPORTANT. The better conceived and composed your drawing is, the more success you will have with Project 2. If your proportions, angles or shapes are off and/or your composition is poor, it will be difficult to fix once we have started painting. This is true for all observational artwork, but it is even more crucial here because we’re working in multiple. In other words, challenge level is boosted by four!
How to Set-Up Acrylic Paper for Project 2
- Gather your materials. That’s an easy one for this task. You need your paper, a pencil and several strips of ¾ inch blue painters tape. You want this size tape to preserve as much open paper as possible, and you want painters tape because it doesn’t damage the surface when removed.
- Lay your paper on a clean surface and unroll a piece of tape a couple inches longer on each end than your paper.
- Line up the tape with one corner of your paper in such a way that it lays flush with the edge. Leave a couple inches extending past, because later on we will fold this over to the back to help secure the tape.
- Work the tape from the tacked corner along the edge to the opposite corner, keeping it straight and flush along the entire length.
- Repeat steps 2–4 for the other three edges of the paper.
- Line up the first mark on your ruler with one of the long edges of your paper. Check that it’s parallel to the short edge, and make two light marks at 9½ inches and 10¼ inches, which are equidistant from the center (9 7/8″).
- Mark 9½ inches and 10¼ inches at least 4 times from top to bottom. These marks will guide the placement of a centered piece of tape.
- Place tape between your marks starting at one end and working to the other. Make sure you keep the tape straight and parallel to the edge of the paper.
- Measure the two columns you have created. They should be equal in width at approximately 8¾ inches. Check this measurement at several points along both columns height, and adjust your tape as necessary.
- Line up the first mark on your ruler with one of the short edges of your paper. Check that it’s parallel to the long edge, and make two light marks at 12 7/16 inches and 13 3/16 inches, which are equidistant from the center (12 13/16″).
- Mark 12 7/16 inches and 13 3/16 inches, at least 4 times from top to bottom to guide the placement of a centered piece of tape.
- Place tape between your marks starting at one end and working to the other in much the same manner as you did for your other centered piece. Make sure you are keeping the tape straight and parallel to the edge of the paper. (see photo for Step 8)
- Measure the widths you have created. They should be equal at approximately 11¾ inches.Check this measurement at several points, and adjust your tape as necessary.
- To double check that you have created consistent, square-cornered windows, you can measure the interior of the boxes from inside corner to inside corner first in one direction and then in the other. If your boxes are square, these measurements will be the same. If they are not the same, it means one or more of your pieces of tape are at an angle relative to the edges of the paper. The tape should be parallel, which can be checked by measuring the distance from the edge of the paper to the tape line at various points.
- Once your tape is correctly placed, rub your hand over the surface of each piece to make sure it adheres. You do not want this tape coming up while you are working on Project 2!
- Finally,turn your paper over and fold the ends of the tape over to help further secure your grid in place.
Transferring Your Drawing
Once you have prepared your grid of boxes on your acrylic paper, you are ready to transfer your still life into each rectangle. You will do this in pretty much the same way as with your master copy with the exception that you can skip the tracing paper step. Tracing paper is not necessary because we are not using our drawing as a reference later. Of course, if you want to preserve the drawing without extra lines for your own use, you can use the tracing paper.
Step-by-step instructions for transfer can be found here here: https://zartnerds.wordpress.com/2016/02/08/instructions-for-transferring-images/
Your final prepared surface will look something like this:
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